Old Damascus During Ramadan: A Festival Of Lights and Flavors

Experiencing Ramadan in Old Damascus is like stepping into a world of its own, filled with a unique charm. The anticipation starts a week or two before the holy month, as families begin their preparations. Housewives head to Al-Asrounieh market to buy kitchen essentials like cups, spoons, and plates, knowing that Ramadan is a time for gatherings—either hosting or visiting. The kitchen gets a thorough cleaning, ready to welcome the festive meals and celebrations.

As the month approaches, Damascus comes alive with “Tekreezet Ramadan,” a tradition where families enjoy a last meal filled with all their favorite dishes before the fasting begins. The start of Ramadan is marked by the firing of a cannon, signaling the first night of the holy month. Children eagerly await the Msaharati, who roams the streets at dawn, beating his drum and calling out to wake everyone for the pre-dawn meal. His cheerful call, “ya nayem wahid al-dayem, koumou ‘ala sahourkon aja Ramadan yozourkon” echoes through the alleys. Families gather for a light meal of labneh, cheese, watermelon, apricot juice, and dates. The morning cannon then signals the start of the fast.

During the day, the atmosphere in Damascus is calm and spiritual. The streets are bustling with vendors selling sweets and refreshing drinks, calling out their wares: “Bared w khamir hal ‘ereq sous,” and “Ya samra ya tamer hindi ya ‘atyab mashroob ‘andi. The aroma of ma’rouk fills the air, making your mouth water. These delightful details immerse you in the authentic Damascene Ramadan experience. Mothers at home prepare dishes like fattoush, tessiyyeh with ghee, and fava beans. It’s a tradition in Damascus to start Ramadan with white dishes, like kibbeh labaniyeh and El Basha W Aasakro.” Before the iftar cannon, neighbors exchange dishes, making the Ramadan table a feast of different dishes.

After breaking the fast, it’s time for a sweet treat, with options like ma’amoul, Nammoura, or halawet el-jibn. The streets come alive again, with cafes buzzing and people strolling under the lantern-lit sky, heading to mosques for Tarawih prayers.

Children welcome Ramadan with great joy because fasting marks their entry into the world of adults. It’s a custom for children to start fasting gradually. They begin by fasting until mid-morning, then noon, and finally until Asr. When they manage a full day, their families celebrate and give them gifts.

Ramadan in Old Damascus is a beautiful blend of spirituality, traditions, and joyful moments, leaving behind cherished memories that stay with us forever.

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